Car all packed, roof top tent all set, we’re off to the
northern most tip of Oz.
We had a variety of food, drinks, water and spare fuel,
ready for the journey.
We departed Peeramon, (our friends’ place), and headed out through Mareeba, Mount Molloy,
Mossman, onto the Daintree ferry, $14 one way, and to Cape Tribulation. From there we
continued along the Bloomfield track, (4WD access only).
Encountered a 4WD rolled over on the track, steep section
which was concreted with a hairpin bend. The Police were on the track advising
drivers of the issue. No one hurt thankfully.
From there we continued along the track into the Aboriginal
settlement of Wujal Wujal and stayed a night in camp grounds at Ayton. Good
camp site, weather was ordinary, overcast and showery.
16 july
From there the next day the track was all sealed so through
to Cooktown with a stop at the historic Lions Den Hotel, (too early for a
beer). Did feed a camel across the road though.
Arrived Cooktown and had a look around at the monuments,
some history and the lookout. No free camps in Cooktown so headed out of town
to a beachside camp at Archer Point, very nice spot, the local kids were
snorkelling around the bay, still think they’re crazy swimming out there.
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| Archer Point camp |
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| Cooktown from Grassy Hill lookout |
17 july,
We then headed off from Cooktown through “Battle Camp” road,
through “Old Laura” and through the Lakefield National Park to Musgrave
Roadhouse.
It was here a lone traveller by the name of Victor
approached us as he had seen our vehicle in Cooktown and recognised it at
Musgrave. He was telling us he had been up in 2015 and asked if we were heading
to the tip. We said yes and he asked if we wanted to travel together for
company and safety. We agreed and continued along the Peninsula Development
Road, (PDR), north to Coen.
Shortly after leaving Musgrave Roadhouse, we came across a
triple road train which had rolled on a corner, again no one hurt.
We stopped at the Coen
pub had a look around and decided we would camp behind the pub, ($5 per
person/night and $5 for power). Naturally, we had a couple of beers, went and
cooked dinner, then headed back up to the pub for couple more.
There are some “colourful” characters there to say the
least. That is, not only the pub patrons but the locals as well. The pub owner
actually breathalyses the locals when they come in for a drink as they are
often over .05 before they get to the pub, she then has a list at the bar and
records their names and readings, wouldn’t see that anywhere else! So as the
night went on, some of the “locals” were out the front trying to start their
vehicle, eventually got it going. As they started to drive off the Police had
been waiting in the shadows and with flashing lights, pulled them up in front
of the pub and proceeded to check them out, and the car was left sitting as it
couldn’t be restarted, even after the Police tried to jump start it, (this was
after taking some of the occupants away in the paddy wagon, was entertaining at
least).
18 july,
Victor decided he was going to head east of the cape to
Chilli Beach as we said we were going to Weipa to have a look. So we ended up
heading off to Weipa on our own. It really wasn’t too much of an issue as there
is a lot of traffic on the roads.
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| Sunset from the beach at Weipa |
Camped at Weipa Van Park for the night. Not much to see
around Weipa. We saw the mine road on the way into town and passed the RAAF
Base Scherger entry.
As we were unfolding the roof top tent, one of the ladder
brackets had broken due to the corrugations, so ended up using the welder in
the van park workshop to repair, they were very helpful.
19 july
Departed Weipa with intention of camping somewhere along the
way but couldn’t find anywhere suitable and continued on until we eventually
got to the Jardine Ferry. The ferry only operates from 8-5 daily and we arrived
at about 4.15 then had to buy the ticket, $99 for the return crossing. It
normally is the only crossing across the Jardine these days, although there had
been little rain during the wet and apparently the river bed had to be dredged
some to allow the ferry to operate.
·
We also heard rumours the locals had been
digging the original 4WD river crossing to ensure travellers would have to use
the ferry.
This is where the signs are more prevalent regarding the
alcohol limits in the Bamaga region, IE one carton of mid strength beer, (or
one carton of pre mix drinks), and 2 litres of wine. We thought we would have
used more of ours by then, but when reading the sign at the ferry, the
penalties were heavy. We decided we would have to leave some of our alcohol
behind. We left 4 litre cask of red and a bottle of scotch we had, (the scotch
we ended up giving to some travellers camped at the ferry as there mates had
broken down back down the track).
Note: the 40 odd klms of “road” to the ferry was absolutely
shocking with corrugations and most of the driving is at 30 klm/h in the table
drain, was very nasty.
As we moved down to board the ferry at 4.45pm, they decided
it was time to refuel the ferry.
Once across the river, we headed to a campground towards
Bamaga. We had been told about Alau Beach near Umagico. We spent 3 nights here,
very reasonable cost, $12 p/person and $5 for power. As we were driving around
looking for a camp spot, our fellow traveller, Victor, called out as he had
already set up camp, so we joined him once again.
Whilst here Les was going around checking wheel nuts, other
nuts etc to ensure nothing had come loose. When the front wheels were being
checked, one wheel nut stud broke off as soon as tension was put on it. This
then meant we had to have this repaired. Whilst Victor was there we went into
Bamaga to check where we could get it repaired, the mechanic at Seisia was not
helpful and we ended up at Cape York Spares and Repairs in Bamaga, where they
were very helpful, but had to order wheel studs from Cairns, this was the
Wednesday and the parts wouldn’t arrive from Cairns on the plane till about
10.00 am Friday. We asked if they could do the repairs on Friday which they
could. They advised repairs would be at $150 p/hour plus parts, so were hoping
the job wouldn’t take too long. The car was repaired and finished by
3.00, $151.00 all up not too bad considering.
We had a drive with Victor around Bamaga and found the two old plane wrecks from WW11.
DC3 wreck near Bamaga Airport
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| Graves of the Jardines at Somerset on the eastern side of the tip |
22 July
This was going to be our first night camped at Seisia camp
grounds as we had heard about the Fishing Club had burgers, drinks and the
footy on the big screen on Friday night. Victor had helped and we dropped the
car at the mechanic Fri morning, had a run up the road to the “croc Tent”
towards the tip.
By the time we had got back the car had been finished.
Thankfully only cost $151.00 total, so wasn’t too bad. Some of the vehicles in
their yard had been there for days waiting for parts, repair etc.
We decided we would do a day trip to Thursday Island whilst
up this far.
This involved a ferry from Seisia to the island and a bus
tour around the main highlights of the island. This was completed by 1.00pm so
headed to the Torres Hotel, (the most northern pub in Queensland).
Whilst there we were talking to a woman who was the owner,
she was telling us how short staffed they were and asked if we wanted a job at
the pub?
WW11 gun emplacement and museum on T.I.
Our little Pearl below
Had 2 nights at Seisia, not as nice as our previous camp
ground. The woman who was the “site
allocator” was rather rude and told us where we would be camping, not as casual
as Alau Beach. When we booked out of there, we headed on the trip to the tip.
Had a couple of detours along some tracks and made it to the tip. One stop was
an old lodge which had been given back to the locals, “Pajinka Lodge”, Pajinka
is the aboriginal name for the tip area. This originally belonged to one of the
airlines and was close to the tip, however once the locals had taken it over,
it was left to ruin, totally unusable now.
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| Palm Cockatoo |
24 July
We decided we would try camping at Punsand Bay and took a
back track through the scrub and had some 4Wding along the way. When we arrived
at Punsand Bay, we booked in with power, $17 p/person and $16 for power as they
were on generator. When we had a look at our allocated camp sites, they were
very ordinary and our leads wouldn’t reach the power. Very nice location with a
new swimming pool, but the manager/owners attitude when we went back for refund
was not appreciated.
We decided we would
get a refund and head to Loyalty Beach instead. This was much more relaxed and
no allocated sites, just find your own spot and then check in. Same price as
Alau Beach and very comfy. Had 3 nights here as it was a great spot. Whilst
here we also met up with another friend, who is a tour guide/hostie with Oz
Tours, doing camping trips to the Cape.
27 july
From here we separated from Victor as we were going back to
Seisia as we were catching up with our friend John Warren who is a tour guide
with Heritage Tours to the Cape. We have been using John and Diane’s house as
our base in Peeramon, on the Tablelands.
We didn’t really want to go back to the camp grounds and we
wondered what the reception would be like this time, it wasn’t any better, as
we had a walk around to have a look at a spot in the sun for the solar panels,
but were advised by the same woman, “you don’t get to pick your sight here”,
then proceeded to take us down the end beside a camping group.
Anyway caught up with John that afternoon and headed off the
next day.
28 July
We then headed to “Bramwell Station Tourist Park”, which is
an operating cattle station, but they have branched out and cater for tourists
with camping facilities and also have a new dining and bar area which has only
been completed in the past few weeks. We decided we would have dinner there as
we had heard good reports about it. Great meal, all the meat, salad and veg you
could eat for $35 & entertainment.
Had a good night here and continued on the next day south
again.
29 July
We found a free camp south of Hann River Roadhouse for the
night. Met with some travellers from Sydney who were on their way to the tip,
so gave them a run down on where to stay etc.
30 July
From here we decided to continue along the main road through
to Mount Molloy for a free camp for the night.
31 Jul/1 Aug
As we hadn’t seen much in the way of crocs, we did a
Daintree river cruise, looking for wildlife, birds, snakes, crocs. Was a one
hour cruise and saw birds and crocs, particularly one large 4.5m croc on the
river bank. They advised us he was the “No 1” on the river and the dominant
male. Also smaller male and females, also some young ones, only few months old.
We decided we would give ourselves a treat and booked a room
in Port Douglas for the night. We actually liked it so much we spent a second
night there also, (Mantra on the Village in the main street). We then headed
back to John and Di’s to repack and reorganise to continue on.
Left their place Sat 6 Aug and free camping at Rocky Creek
War Memorial Park. Very busy spot.
